Food & Drink
It’s with reluctance that we mention this Seminole Heights watering hole because drinking here feels like home (with a lot more selection, obviously) and we don’t wanna ruin it. There are countless reasons to be charmed by the open-to-the-public venue (there’s a cuss jar – and they use it), but a good place to start is on Thursday nights when Johnny Charro’s dance band plays tunes you can mingle and just be neighbors with someone to. Just remember to be nice; it’s not that hard, you know.
It’s been a long and winding road for Green Bench Brewing Co. The building renovations are now nearly complete, the outdoor beer garden is underway, and head brewer Khris Johnson is brewing batch after batch of delicious (and already noteworthy) beers. They’re not quite open yet, but the slated mid-September looks right on track.
As the name suggests, the authentic specialties of the house come from the sea. Or to be more accurate, from the aquariums that line a wall near the kitchen. Talk about fresh! Your dinner is swimming right up until you place an order. It’s especially fun to see a tank of shrimp gliding through the water doing a kind of multi-legged dog paddle. And then, like magic, fresh seafood is on your plate.
Pull into the nondescript group of shops at 1300 East Bay Drive in Largo and you’ll swear you’re being punked. This intimate plaza offers an authentic global cuisine sampler: Thai Bay restaurant, Anna’s Polish deli, Tampa Style Cubans café, German Bistro 2 and Las Palomas Latin American Market. There’s no excuse not to explore. 1300 East Bay Drive, Largo. Cuban 727-586-5797; German 727-216-6519; Latin American 727-581-1050; Polish 727-953-7763; Thai 727-584-5522, thaibayandsushi.com.
CL food critic Jon Palmer Claridge went in search of the perfect bagel earlier this year, and he found his holy grail at Clearwater Bagels. Dense, chewy, with a moist crumb and a touch of sweet malt, these bagels stand out above all the rest. Take a bite, close your eyes, and be transported to bagel Valhalla (aka New Yawk).
When the elevator doors open, your gaze is drawn toward the thrilling rooftop space. There’s the sky bar, private cabanas, fire pits, indoor/outdoor grass, living room seating, high-top tables and a surprising glass railing with unobstructed, breathtaking views across the treetops of Straub Park out to the glistening Bay. Add a delightful mix of Todd McNulty’s creative cocktails and, for the Champagne aficionado, Veuve Cliquot by the amply poured glass. It’s only five stories up, but it sure seems close to heaven.
One Night Stand’s animatronic bull, Mustache, has proven irresistible to macho men, women in skirts, and spectators eager to see this vomit-machine make fools of the drunken brave. While Mustache may lure patrons into St. Pete’s first country bar, they stay for moonshine cocktails in mason jars, line dancing, and female bartenders rocking tank tops, daisy dukes, and boots. 149 First Ave. N., Saint Petersburg, 727-823-0000, onenightstandstpete@gmail.com.
It wasn't just the ribs, almost inappropriately tender and juicy, that made Eli's Bar-B-Que in Dunedin. It was Eli Crawford himself, a shepherd of meat to the promised land of barbecue. It was almost as if the racks of ribs knew they were in the right hands when they reached Crawford, and they submitted to his barbecue will every time. Crawford, 71, died on March 14, after a battle with leukemia. Barbecue apprentice and Crawford’s “son,” Eric Davis, continues the tradition today.
Only the second year of this festival, and already the rest of the world is taking notice. With over 200 events spread around the bay, and some truly top-notch happenings, Tampa Bay proved it can attract craft beer lovers from all over. Every day brought something amazing, from beer pairing dinners to collaboration releases to full-blown festivals. We had visiting brewers from Belgium, homebrewers sharing their talents, and a Beer Week kick-off with Mayor Buckhorn tapping a firkin of the first-ever 13-brewery collaboration brew. tampabaybeerweek.com.
Bill and Leslee Workman opened up their Brandon ice cream shop last year and drew a word-of-mouth following with flavors like Chicken N Waffles, Drunken Brownie, Porkie’s Delight (yes, there’s bacon), and Curried Sky. And that’s just the tip of the ice, ahem, cream cone. Workman is constantly coming up with new and inventive flavors like their most recent addition, the Seaward, made with salted caramel, cardamom, cinnamon and coffee.
A building that once housed a Best Western and a Travelodge received a $2 million upgrade this year that left the space looking like an historic St. Pete landmark. Not only is the Hollander a haven for travelers seeking an affordable and unique place to stay within walking distance of downtown, it’s also become a hangout for locals. The funky-chic hotel lobby adjoins the popular Tap Room, where both guests and regulars lounge in the cozy interior or on the dog-friendly patio to enjoy the best Florida has to offer, including locally produced beer and coffee from the Hollander’s Brew D Licious Coffee Shop. 421 Fourth Ave. N., St. Petersburg, 727-873-7900, hollanderhotel.com.
St. Petersburg’s newest burger destination boasts 20 different varieties of burger goodness (including portabellas for veggie heads and seared ahi tuna for fish lovers). Every burger begins with eight juicy ounces of prime Black Angus beef. Whether it’s the Black Flag with Cajun spices, the Heart Attack (with bacon, cheese, and fried egg), or the Chubby Duck with foie gras, Engine No9 never disappoints in the burger department.
Executive Chef Hunsberger brings decades of experience to the Don CeSar, where he supervised the overhaul of the flagship Maritana Grille as well as the less formal Sea Porch. During his tenure, the Maritana Grille has been a shining star in the regional dining firmament, and now Hunsberger has hired chef Gavin Pera and overhauled the menu. Our devout wish is that his new team maintains the heady 4.5 star experience from CL’s March visit. Kenny, we’re counting on you!
We’ve followed the hush-hush meanderings of Chef Domenica ever since her legal contretemps with Three Birds prevented her from taking over any nearby kitchens, thanks to a no-compete clause. Legal action is still pending, so Chef can’t technically work anywhere for a while, but as she moves underground from place to place she leaves a faint trail of revamped menus (look for truffle oil) in her wake. Wherever she goes, her supporters follow her. Her food, at its best, is just that good.
Bacon has long inspired chefs, but it’s a relative newcomer to dessert — at least on a regular basis. Ella’s chocolate bacon dessert dips crisp slices in dark chocolate and then sprinkles them with peanuts; a white chocolate version uses pancetta and slivered almonds. We enjoyed our first encounter with chocolate bacon immensely and we’re betting you will, too.
A lady-driven juice initiative that literally started on the ground in St. Petersburg. Cold-pressed juice cleanses from Squeeze JuiceWorks are in such high demand, the goddesses behind the juice presses are opening their own storefront in St. Petersburg. Customers swear by such juice combinations as One Night in Bangkok, Simple Greens, Lemon-Aide, and Motherload. The shop opens at 674 30th Ave. N. soon. Until then, order your fresh juices online at squeezejuiceworks.com. 206-465-1345, orders@squeezejuiceworks.com.
You don’t find many Cajun restaurants where craft beer is a star attraction, but not many are owned by a beer geek like Paul Unwin. Cajun Cafe on the Bayou features a wide array of craft beers — with lots of Florida breweries on tap — and is home to three annual beer festivals, one devoted to the increasingly popular but decidedly geeky sour beers. He also travels near and far seeking out new tastes.
Trip’s is one of the best better-than-usual diners without the overpriced hooha of other updated, yupscale ’50s-style greasy spoons. While there, be sure to order the luxuriant coconut cream pie for dessert. The pie’s dense lusciousness and subtle tropical notes will make all others taste like Mounds filling by comparison. 2339 Dr. MLK Jr. St. N, St. Petersburg, 727-498-8980, tripsdiner.com.
A fusion of exotica, tiki and local flava came together in an amalgamation of cocktail greatness when SideBern’s Dean Hurst created the Stolen Idol. Named for the local exotica musical group, Stolen Idols, the drink included coconut and coffee at their request, and the java Hurst chose was Tampa’s own Buddy Brew. The drink was featured on SideBern’s cocktail menu this summer.
Our area is blessed with a variety of markets, but the very best place to procure fresh fish is I.C. Sharks. This unassuming spot is located along Gandy Boulevard across from Channel 10 as you head from St Pete to Tampa. Walking in, you immediately recognize the freshness, quality and variety that compels customers to drive from both sides of the Bay to purchase their goods. Especially tasty are the precooked shrimp, and the crab salad is uber-fresh with not too much mayo. The proprietors source their fish from local fishermen and you can rent boats from the marina, right behind the market. Plus, there’s a surprisingly spacious tiki bar and restaurant out back with a great waterfront view. 13040 Gandy Blvd., St. Petersburg, 727-498-8568, icsharks.com.
Most people would say the center of Florida’s booming craft beer scene is Tampa, home to the world-renowned Cigar City Brewing. But, believe it or not, there are more craft brewers in Pinellas, home to Florida’s oldest (Dunedin), best new (Rapp), and creative (St. Somewhere, 7eventh Sun, Cycle), with several more on the way.
If you crave foie gras, head on down. This luxury ingredient always comes at a premium — in this case $26 — but I’ve never had as perfectly cooked and as generous a portion. The presentation at Cafe Largo is decidedly rustic, with just a few soft caramelized apples slices and a sauce of the emulsified pan fat, but the “slice” is actually triple the normal serving, with some less elegant smaller pieces, but each bite is perfectly creamy.
Since 2005, Tribune food writer Jeff Houck’s blog, “The Stew,” has set a standard for flair in food writing not just locally but beyond. Sometimes called “the tallest man in Tampa,” Houck’s hearty appetite for humor, food and drink, alongside an ability to be seemingly ten places at once, has attracted a dedicated cult following. Readers send in photos for Weekend Eats, and Houck chooses a handful of the weekend’s strangest and tastiest-looking fare to share on his blog. He’s fearless in his reporting, going behind the scenes into the scalding heat of the kitchen (and even to porn star Maria Milano’s house for a steak and lobster dinner). He’s hilarious, smart, and goshdarnnit people like him. Follow him at tbo.com or @jeffhouck.
We’re loath to mention this — lest all you freeloading hobos out there show up just to scarf free vittles and give short shrift to the amazing, often internationally renowned artists inside the USF Contemporary Art Museum. Still, USF-CAM deserves mad props for its full-on spread that fattens both starving artists and fans alike with quiches, brie, spanakopitas, julienne veggies, barbecue wings, salads and pastries! It far out-hors’doeuvres the Ritz crackers and cheese that we usually get, if we’re lucky. 3821 USF Holly Drive, Tampa.
Trying to pick this award is similar to trying to name the smartest person at a MENSA meeting. Every brewer in Tampa works his or her tail off day in and day out to bring the best beer possible to a very thirsty beer-loving public. That said, the small team at 7venth Sun is an amazing example of truly going the extra mile. Never-ending innovation, a seemingly everywhere-at-once presence, and consistently great beer — among the best in the area — have earned them this honor with flying colors.1012 Broadway, Dunedin, 727-733-3013,7thsun.com.
This was the first fundraiser for Tampa Bay Beer Week, the nonprofit group behind the two-year-old spring beer event that grew exponentially this year. The fest, in the courtyard and cantina of the Cuban Club on Sept. 7, wowed the crowd of dedicated beer geeks in both concept — stuff they couldn’t get at their local tavern — and execution. It showed why Tampa Bay has become Beertopia in Florida. tampabaybeerweek.com.
There's something inherently comforting about a giant flaky biscuit with butter and homemade jam. Take it to the next level with Boca's brunch selection and the farm-to-table goodness of Plant City strawberries, blackberry cardamom, or kumquat marmalade. The selections change weekly based on freshness and availability, but are always accompanied with decadent orange-blossom honey butter, freshly baked breads and those to-die-for biscuits.
Amidst the constant construction of U.S. 19 in north Pinellas, you’ll pass a seemingly empty strip mall among the car dealerships and piles of rubble in Clearwater. Keep a keen eye out for A & N Italian Store and Deli. It’s the only store still alive in the strip mall, and boy oh boy do we thank god for that. Mama and her team run an authentic Italian deli flush with homemade sausages, salamis, and lasagnas. The sandwiches (like the Capicola) put Mazzaro’s through the paces. And there’s a wide variety of Italian speciality foods, wines, and more. 17956 U.S. 19 Clearwater, 727-531-6371.
Caretta’s “Florida Heat” dessert will knock you for a loop. Imagine a tower stacking blood orange mousse, pink grapefruit mousse and perfectly torched Italian meringue atop delicate lemon sponge cake. When this much flavor is lighter than air and explosive, yet velvety, on the palate, it’s the kind of surprise that you don’t forget and need to tell the world. Consider yourself told.
Runners Up: Maduro, Cigar CIty Brewery, Florida Cracker, Cigar CIty Brewery
Runners Up: Nitally's Inferno Soup Challenge, Takara Sushi & Sake Lounge Sushi Eating Contest
Catering wizard Kim Bailey and Suzanne Perry, the effervescent owner of Datz and Dough, have great energy and banter on mic. And Kim manages to snag famous chefs, food TV icons, and obsessive purveyors of artisanal food products for insightful interviews. Plus, you can call in! Tune in Saturdays afternoons. Kim says they’re moving from 2 to 1 p.m. on WWBA 820 AM. So check the program listings. 866-977-4820, newstalkflorida.com/820-news-program-schedule.
Every year, day-old Bourbon Red poults (baby turkeys) and broad-breasted white poults arrive at Ben Pate’s farm in Ruskin. The word-of-mouth following for Pate’s all-natural turkeys (he doesn’t use the Internet or any kind of advertising at all) is something of a legend in local co-op circles. Pate cares deeply about his work, and you’ve likely never had a turkey that tasted better come Thanksgiving. 3611 Gulf City Road, Ruskin, 813-645-6681 or 813-546-3810.
Independent Bar and Cafe owner Veronica Danko enjoyed a Pinellas reunion of sorts when she opened a Clearwater location in May. Transforming the inside of the old Clearwater Brew Garden, Danko and her crew put together a beautifully crafted bar, lush with cedar woodwork and a plentiful local and global beer selection. Located across the street from Ruth Eckerd Hall, the “Cindy,” as they call it, is the perfect Clearwater beer bar for a few pints with good friends.
A Sunshine State-centric spin on a classic style, this low-alcohol, high-flavor brew hit new heights this year. Credit goes to Cycle Brewing’s Doug Dozark for the innovation, and the rest of Florida followed suit. The tart, light brew made with fresh Florida fruits found its way into the hearts and very identity of the emerging craft beer culture that is unique to our state. Releases from Cigar City Brewing, Rapp Brewing, 7venth Sun, Wakefield Brewing in Miami, and many others have demonstrated the talent and ingenuity of Florida brewers.
Don’t be a-skeered of the drab, uninviting exterior. This new spot tucked behind an Arby’s in a featureless strip mall is surprisingly dashing inside, with leather couches, a big bar, and a very amiable staff. And if you happen to be there when one of the area’s top drag divas is hosting (Kori Stevens, Jaeda Fuentes et al), expect one of the loopiest audience-participation shows around — funny, a bit startling, and altogether entertaining.
Order Cubans, Churrasco, homemade sodas and Cuban coffees without leaving Central Avenue. Bodega on Central is the South Beach brainchild of Brooklyn transplant Debbie and George Sayegh, who was inspired by his time in Miami ordering Cubans from street vendors and to-go windows. The menu is simple, fresh, authentic and cheap. Order at the window, grab a cerveza or Chi-Chi Rodriguez (half iced-tea, half fresh lime soda), and pick up a brown paper bag of wax paper-wrapped sandwiches or dine al fresco on sidewalk tables. Beware, Tampa Cuban fiends: Sayegh doesn’t put mustard or salami on his version (but he’ll kindly explain why if you ask). Grab a strong cuban coffee for dessert, alongside Bodega’s pastellitos.
Chef Michael Buttacavoli delivers big time on Cena’s promise to be “modern, fresh, and simple.” CL’s return trips since a 4-star review in July have only confirmed that the kitchen rocks. There’s not a single item on the menu that disappoints, and many offer a welcome element of surprise. And pastry chef Evan Schmidt continues to knock you on your culinary ass. On top of everything, Cena offers some great bargains; the price, as they say on a certain TV game show, is right.
Get crabs. Big crabs. Deviled. Fresh. Frozen. Soft shell. Whatever. It doesn’t matter, just lug your hungry ass to this charming little shack in Tampa Heights where Danny Richards peddles his catch at way reasonable prices while his wife Donna rolls the most delicious deviled crabs to ever touch your lips. It’s all presented with a genuine love of seafood, and a food truck will soon be on premises to cook all it for you. Bring your own hammock for your food coma recovery afterward. 2111 North Blvd. (North Boulevard and Palm Avenue), Tampa, 813-228-0033.
The “Haye Loft” has a pastry chef brigade that turns out absolutely flawless desserts with magazine-cover precision. There’s apple walnut crumble pie, peanut butter mousse pie with Myers rum & dark chocolate icing, coconut custard pie, banana cream pie, Florida Key lime pie, triple berry glaze, chocolate mint cheesecake, Southern pecan pie and lemon meringue pie with a spectacular golden brown four-inch meringue over scrumptious tart lemon custard that is simply outrageous.
Brewing is typically a job for many hands. From the business side to the brewing to the packaging, there are many jobs to be done. Greg Rapp does them all. He opened Rapp Brewing Company only a little over a year ago, and not only does he brew all of his beer (consistently rated among the best in the world), he’s also the name and face of the brewery at every event and pours the 20 beers on tap in his tasting room. Rapp Brewing was voted Best New Florida Brewery of 2013 on RateBeer. 10930 Endeavour Way Suite C, Seminole, 727-692-7912, RappBrewing.com.
It’s been called the busiest Starbucks in Florida. The front lot has a row of spaces that butt up against a drive-through line, which if long enough, provides cars no room to back up, resulting in a nasty stand-off between over-caffeinated patrons exiting the premises and withdrawal-ridden addicts entering it. CL A&E Editor Julie Garisto recently sought feedback on her Facebook page about the situation. Of the post’s 76 comments, two people called it a “death trap,” and local actor Ned Averill-Snell wrote in all caps, “IT IS ABSOLUTE COMPLETE FREAKIN' HELL.” Local musician Kim Stein Lepley said, “It is freakin' stressful!” Our favorite solution was from USF professor Jennifer Beet Bosson, who chimed in with “It’s a total clusterf*ck! I think they should build a 10-story parking garage above … or helicopter people down from a remote location. It makes me laugh! I kind of dig the chaos (from a safe distance, of course).”
A sweet little retreat on a bright yet cozy corner in the burgeoning Channel District, this offshoot of Downtown Tampa’s Bamboozle offers a more limited menu than the original, but you can have dinner delivered from there or just enjoy the Tea Lounge’s own beautifully prepared banh mi, soul-warming pho, and amazing variety of teas, brewed as you watch in hot, iced or boba varieties. An inviting couch encourages a stay-and-play atmosphere, as do books and games, Friday karaoke nights, and big glass windows with a view of the new park across the street.
Once you’ve used the password to gain access, the void slowly comes into focus — revealing a dark mirrored wall that multiplies the stylish clientele and creates endless rows of colorful bottles behind a huge bar. You’re quickly ushered down the narrow corridor into an intimate dining suite behind gauzy curtains. This is the dark clandestine world of the Bay area’s best craft cocktails. So settle in and imbibe the spirit of the Roaring '20s.
Or any old Friday night, or Saturday, or weekday. No matter when you visit O’Maddy’s, it feels like you’re on vacation, its open-air ambience matched by an open-minded vibe that’s ideal for the live-and-let-live ethos of Gulfport. We’ll always remember an evening on the cusp of Easter weekend this year, when the crackerjack duo Pete and Dean sang country-esque covers, a gal named Pepper channeled ’80s rap with her David Bowie lookalike girlfriend, and the food, like divers scallops with bacon brittle, was 100 better times than we expected it to be.
Popsicles have come a long way from our childhood memories, with artisanal flavors appearing on the ends of sticks across the country. Pop Bandits take the Latin American paleta route, thick with fruits and saturated color. It's pretty impossible to pick a favorite (or to only order one) from a food truck menu that changes frequently, but could include strawberry buttermilk, roasted banana, honeydew ginger, salted caramel, or coconut cucumber.727-433-0946, popbandits.com.
For Straz-goers looking to have a pre- (or post-) show snack, the options have been limited to Fly (dependably great food, but a trek); Sono (lovely, but a limited menu except on Friday evenings); and the arts center’s own well-reviewed restaurants. But now there are several new spots to choose from, many of them popping up along with the area’s high-rises, and none is more spot-on than Anise. Addictive Asian-inflected “bunz” and noodles, delicious specials (a pork loin a few nights ago was stellar), expertly crafted cocktails, and charming, time-attentive servers make this the perfect place to stop for a light dinner before Jobsite or for a nightcap after The Book of Mormon.
There is no greater food bargain in the entire Bay area than the early bird special in this handsomest of dining rooms. From Sunday through Thursday from 5-6:30 p.m. you’re invited to celebrate the opening year of the Vinoy with a three-course dinner for only $19.25. The choices vary seasonally, but there are two to three selections for each course chosen from Chef Mark Heimann’s regular 4-star menu.
If you want to hide out at Mandarin Hide, the popular cocktail spot in the heart of St. Pete’s Central Avenue party district, plow through the crowds clogging the bar to the intimate outdoor space at the back: a tiny, brick-walled, wooden-benched space with the same high-level mixology and sexy bartenders as the front of the house, but with a much quieter ambience — unless there’s a show at Jannus, in which case you can sit back, sip your cocktail, and listen to the music for free. 231 Central Ave., St Petersburg, 727-231-4007, mandarinhide.com.
The modest Waters Avenue restaurant has good food but a shorthanded staff — but that doesn’t keep the local foodies away. On one visit, some non-Asian diners were noticeably on edge, pacing and hovering by the cashier like Charlies on a stakeout. Considering that the Pho An Hoa’s customers were waiting for a colorful array of veggies, savory and filling pho and stuffed-to-the-gills fresh rolls, you get a sense why. 2730 W Waters Ave., Tampa, 813-490-9157.
Chef Ciro Mancini’s Shrimp Mediterraneo is logically too straightforward to be this succulent and delicious. But it is the real deal — stunning in both taste and simplicity. Ten huge, juicy Gulf shrimp are butterflied, lightly charred and served on a cast-iron sizzle platter à la fajitas. There’s an accompanying spicy fra diavolo sauce, but for my taste, the shrimp sing on their own.
If you’re wandering around downtown St. Pete and need a snack, you’re in for a real treat if you stop by the Z Grille for Chef Zack Gross’s edgy new American cuisine. Imagine a toasted brioche bun with a luscious slab of crisp pork belly, sweet and spicy orange jalapeno jam and a creamy slice of La Belle Farm’s foie gras topped with a fried quail egg dripping yolk. You are not dreaming; this is for real.
The Bends feels like it was built by young entrepreneurs with more creativity and DIY knowhow than capital. Inhabiting the same space brought to life by ArtPool, the Bends attracts a steady clientele of tattooed, mustached, and skinny-jeans-wearing patrons to this oasis of PBRs, no-nonsense cocktails, and cigarettes. The interior is ornamented with repurposed wood, a portrait of Tom Selleck's mustache, an eclectic soundtrack, and art installations that are as variously impressive and terrible as the variety of tattoos on display. The Edge District location provides a certain mystique, as well as a buffer from tourist traffic.
Erica Allums’ sublime daily soup specials are offered with half a sandwich. Both the tomato-garbanzo and sweet potato-apple versions are full of multi-dimensional flavor, have marvelous texture and are well balanced — everything a comfort soup should be. Banyan’s sandwiches and wraps are also as imaginatively varied as they are consistently delicious. The food is fresh and inventive, with surprises at every turn. Do your taste buds a favor and drop by for lunch.
Cena makes it easy to begin with bubbles — always a great way to start a meal. They offers ample pours of both a French Blanc de Blanc brut (100 percent chardonnay) and an Italian Blanc de Noir sparkling rosé from Emilia-Romagna at only five bucks a glass. This is a bargain not to be missed.
See it, smell it, and taste it. You’ll feel just like a kid in a candy store. Only here, you can taste fresh olive oil varietals from California, Italy, Morocco and Tunisia. There are over a dozen flavor-infused oils; the same is true for aged balsamic vinegars. This independently owned and operated culinary delight also stocks mustard, honey, barbecue sauces, ketchups, sugars, spices, and flavor-infused sea salt. 737 Broadway Street, Dunedin, 727-797-1300, middleeartholiveoil.com
When Peg’s Cantina brewer Doug Dozark announced he’d be opening his very own brewery downtown, beer locals were thrilled. Cycle Brewing’s Facebook page documented the months of renovations, inspections and brewing. The opening date was slated for late August. Then, on August 15 at 5 p.m., Doug announced suddenly on Facebook that he was open for business. Locals rejoiced at the news, which spread fast; that night the brewery’s bar was packed. Fresh pints, cash only, and growlers to-go.
As if The Independent’s beer selection weren’t awesome enough, the recent addition to the café’s menu of Emily Cocke’s Rise & Grind baked goods makes trips to the bar even more enticing. Her vegan and often gluten-free creations are impossible to pass up while enjoying your favorite beer. The baked goods are so beautiful that even those who complain about people who take photos of their food find themselves guilty of that same offense. Rise and Grind’s cupcakes are a work of art worth sharing with your friends on Instagram, but when it comes to sharing the cakes and cupcakes themselves — NEVER!!! 5016 N. Florida Ave., Tampa, 813-341-4883, independenttampa.com, facebook.com/RiseandGrindBakery.
The Black Pearl remains one of the standout restaurants in the entire Bay area because every dish applies impeccable technique to the freshest ingredients. Shortly after Jon Palmer Claridge’s CL review last year, he spent five weeks in France, where, he reports, he didn’t have a single tarte tatin that even came close to the version served at the Black Pearl night after night — thin mouth-watering fans of caramelized apples with flaky pastry from your dreams.
While there are many lovely corporate chain offerings on North Dale Mabry, the addition of Cigar City’s Brewpub obviously takes the cake as the best thing to happen to Carrolwood since Whole Foods. Cigar City beers (many of which you can only get at the brewpub) are brewed on-site, paired with a menu of Cuban-inspired dishes. Next time the in-laws, parents, or family invite you up for a visit, be sure to take a detour here for a pint and a plate.
Sunday’s Deli is God’s gift to the lunch crowd. Chef David Sunday has brought the expertise that he displayed at Sunday’s Fine Dining to the masses in the form of gargantuan sandwiches that come with huge flavor to match. Seriously, order the full-sized Cuban, chicken parm or any of the other subs, and you’re good for at least lunch and dinner — and you might even have some left over for the next day’s breakfast. The only thing Sunday’s lacks is huge prices, with the sandwiches all reasonably priced ($6.50 for a half — and it’s a huge half — and $12 for the whole) and coming with tasty homemade potato chips. It’s a meal fit for a very, very large king.
Dessert wizard Evan Schmidt delivers a deconstructed tiramisu that arrives at the table looking like a huge ostrich egg nestled in espresso and chocolate gravel, decorated by two long chocolate spears. The “egg” is a Mascarpone mousse filled with espresso-soaked ladyfingers. Fortunately, it’s not a gimmick; every element is expertly executed. It’s tiramisu for the avant-garde, and truly delicious.
You may know the swanky Mermaid Tavern in Seminole Heights for its groovy tunes and plentiful libations. But have you tried the food? Specifically the Kefta burger? Rooted in Middle Eastern cuisine, the spiced meat patty is one of SH’s best bangs for your buck.
The space used to be home to a World of Beer, but with the transition to Social, owner Johnny Ciani has opened up whole new worlds of flavor. You can still watch the game on one of multiple TVs above the bar, and there’s still a good long list of micro-beers, but the surprise is the artisanal care being taken behind the bar — classic drinks like a perfect Old Fashioned and a tart French 75 — and in the kitchen. The menu operates on the principle of doing a few things, and doing them well — like a celestial “Burg”er, savory rosemary chicken wings, a Mazzaro Mozz sandwich, and the awesome Maduro cheesecake. Ciani works as much as possible with locally sourced ingredients, so there may be a whole new array of items on the menu this fall, depending on what his suppliers bring in. Though the surprises here may include an occasional pocketbook-busting cocktail tab, the food is reasonably priced and the atmosphere remains as relaxed and unpretentious as, well, a World of Beer.
Once a month, St. Pete’s Lotus Vegetarian Restaurant hosts an all-you-can-eat vegan buffet marathon. The line typically snakes out the door, and tables are crammed with Tampa Bay’s vegan (or vegan-friendly) glitterati, piling their plates full of delicious Vietnamese vegan goodness for $10.99. The next vegan buffet is Sat., Sept. 21 at 5 p.m.
With a name that’s perfectly apt — the Italian word for “Eat!” — Mangia proprietor Jill Johnson and her mom represent two generations of women with roots from the boot. Together they run a food vendor kiosk service, catering company and — just opened this past summer — a legit bricks-and-mortar cafe in Gulfport (a spot formerly occupied by Paco's Tacos, with a courtyard and outdoor seating). Mangia has the Mediterranean goodness of its culinary DNA, expert fusion cooking prepared with local, organic, low-fat, gluten-free foods. Try the quinoa salad, “cool” slaw or veggie antipasto. It all seems too good to be true, but Ms. Johnson and fam pull it off exquisitely. Find them at the Twilight, Hyde Park and Wiregrass markets or their own little spot in South Pinellas. 2930 Beach Blvd. S., Gulfport. 727-321-6264, mangiagourmet.com.
While everyone else keeps tightening their belts, get ready to loosen yours with the most affordable and unique ingredients in Tampa. Imagine Anthony Bourdain as a buyer for Costco: huge bags of sticky black rice, boxes of spicy sugared tamarind candy, cases of canned sugar cane drink, coolers of whole pomano, bags of frozen banana leaves. More traditional staples are also available at steep discount; the dairy, meat, and seafood sections are full of affordable options. Be sure to bring a sweater for the enormous chilled produce section — the quantity, quality, and variety is worth the trip alone. 2621 E. Hillsborough Ave., Tampa, 813-234-8428, sanwafarmersmarket.com.
